Bursa

Bursa was the first capital of the Ottoman Empire, established in 1326 when Osman I’s son Orhan captured it from the Byzantines. The city’s historical importance is reflected in its monuments — the Green Mosque and Green Tomb are among the finest early Ottoman buildings anywhere — and in a silk and textile tradition that made Bursa the wealthiest city in the empire at its peak.

Today Bursa is Turkey’s fourth-largest city, sitting at the foot of Mount Uludag (2,543m) — Turkey’s premier ski resort — on the southern shore of the Marmara Sea. It is 90 minutes from Istanbul and absurdly undervisited by international tourists.

The Green Mosque and Green Tomb

The Yesil Cami (Green Mosque, 1424) is the masterpiece of early Ottoman architecture. The name comes from the interior tilework — thousands of hexagonal tiles in deep turquoise, jade, and blue that cover the walls, prayer niches, and dome supports. The effect is unlike any other mosque interior in Turkey: intimate in scale but extraordinary in decorative quality.

The Yesil Turbe (Green Tomb) opposite contains the sarcophagus of Sultan Mehmed I, also covered in the same turquoise tiles. Together they represent the artistic peak of the Bursa period before the capital moved to Edirne and then Istanbul.

Practical: Both free, open daily. The mosque closes during prayer times. 10-minute walk from the Covered Bazaar.

The Bursa Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi)

The covered bazaar in Bursa predates Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar and has a more local character. The Koza Han (Silk Cocoon Han, 1491) at its centre is the former silk exchange — a beautiful two-storey courtyard han where silk traders still operate. Surrounding streets specialize in towels, textiles, and the pestemal (hamam cloths) that Bursa has produced for centuries.

The Bedesten at the bazaar’s heart sells silver jewellery, antiques, and textiles. Less touristy and more interesting than Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar for serious shopping.

Iskender Kebab: The Original

Iskender kebab was invented in Bursa in 1867 by Iskender Efendi. Thin slices of doner meat are laid over torn flatbread, covered in tomato sauce, and finished with a pour of brown butter at the table. Served with yoghurt on the side. It is a specific, Bursa-only dish and eating it in its city of origin at one of the restaurants that descended from the original Iskender Efendi establishment is a genuine food experience.

Where: Kebapçı İskender on Atatürk Caddesi is the main descendant of the original. Iskender Efendi Torunu is another well-regarded option.

The Old Mosques and Tombs

The Ulu Cami (Grand Mosque, 1399) is the largest mosque in Bursa — 20 domes, 12 columns, and an indoor fountain (şadırvan) in the central bay. The calligraphy panels on the walls represent Ottoman calligraphic art at its finest.

The Muradiye Complex (1426) is a külliye (mosque and associated buildings) containing the tombs of 12 Ottoman princes, each decorated in different tile styles. A quiet, atmospheric place.

Mount Uludag

The mountain directly above Bursa is Turkey’s most popular ski resort, with 21 lifts, runs for all levels, and a gondola from the city centre (Teleferik) that gives non-skiers access to the views and snow in winter. In summer the mountain is cool (a relief from Bursa’s humid summers), green, and used for hiking.

Practical: Gondola from Bursa city centre, approximately 350 TRY return. Ski season: December to March. Summer hiking: June to October.

Getting to Bursa from Istanbul

The best route: IDO fast ferry from Yenikapi (Istanbul) to Bursa (Mudanya), then bus to Bursa city centre. Total: approximately 2 hours, significantly more pleasant than the bus option.

Alternatively: direct bus from Istanbul’s Esenler Otogar, 3 to 3.5 hours.

Best Time to Visit

Spring (April to June) when the surrounding plain and the lower slopes of Uludag are green and flowering. Autumn (September to October) for the foliage. Winter for skiing. Summer is hot and humid; the mountain provides an escape.