Ankara

Ankara is Turkey’s capital and second-largest city, chosen by Ataturk precisely because it was not Istanbul — a deliberate break from the Ottoman past to establish a new, secular, Anatolian republic. It is a planned city built on an arid central plateau, administrative in character and not conventionally scenic. Most tourists skip it in favour of Istanbul, which is the wrong calculation.

Ankara has two things that justify a dedicated visit: Anitkabir (the mausoleum of Ataturk, the most architecturally imposing modern monument in Turkey), and the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations (the finest collection of Hittite, Bronze Age, and Phrygian artefacts anywhere in the world).

Anitkabir

Ataturk’s mausoleum sits on a hilltop visible across the city. Built between 1944 and 1953, it is a deliberately monumental complex — a processional avenue flanked by Hittite-inspired stone lions leads to a porticoed hall containing a 40-tonne marble sarcophagus. The museum below contains Ataturk’s personal effects, state gifts, and documents from the War of Independence.

The ceremony of the guard change is precise and impressive. On 10 November each year (the anniversary of Ataturk’s death in 1938), the entire country pauses for a moment of silence at 9:05am — including traffic, markets, and factories.

Practical: Open daily except Monday. Free entry. Allow 2 hours. The complex is large; comfortable shoes are necessary.

Museum of Anatolian Civilisations

The best museum in Turkey, housed in two restored 15th-century hans near the Ankara Citadel. The collection spans 10,000 years: Palaeolithic and Neolithic finds from Çatalhöyük and Hacılar, extraordinary Chalcolithic and Bronze Age artefacts, and the finest Hittite collection in existence — including the Treaty of Kadesh (the world’s oldest surviving peace treaty, 1259 BC, a copy of which hangs at the UN in New York).

Practical: Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8:30am to 7pm. Entrance approximately 200 TRY. Allow 2 to 3 hours. The museum is next to the Ankara Citadel; combine both in a morning visit.

Ankara Citadel (Hisar)

The Byzantine and later Ottoman citadel on the rocky hill above the old city. The inner walls and towers date from the 7th century. The neighbourhood inside the walls (Iç Kale) is the oldest part of Ankara — timber-framed houses, cobblestone lanes, and a small traditional neighbourhood that contrasts completely with the modern city below. The views from the walls over Ankara are the best in the city.

Atpazari and the Old Bazaar

Below the citadel, the copper and tin-smiths’ quarter (Atpazarı) and the surrounding streets of the old bazaar have a more authentic character than Ankara’s otherwise modern commercial centre.

Ankara for High-Speed Rail

Ankara sits at the centre of Turkey’s high-speed rail network. The Istanbul to Ankara HSR (4h 15min) is the most-used domestic rail route in Turkey. Ankara is also connected by HSR to Konya (1h 45min) and Eskisehir (1h 30min), making it a natural transit hub for a rail-focused itinerary.

Best Time to Visit

Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October). Ankara’s continental climate means hot summers (30-35C) and cold winters (below zero at night, occasional snow). The spring months when the plateau is green and the city’s parks are in bloom are the most pleasant.