Sanliurfa

Sanliurfa — known locally simply as Urfa — is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth and, according to Islamic and Jewish tradition, the birthplace of Abraham. The sacred pool of Balikli Gol (Pool of Abraham), where tradition holds that Nimrod threw Abraham into a fire that God turned into water, is the centre of the city’s religious life. Equally significant and more provably ancient is Gobekli Tepe, 15km northeast: a complex of stone temples dated to 10,000 BC, the oldest monumental architecture yet discovered.

Urfa is the most Middle Eastern of Turkish cities. The bazaar extends for kilometres; the food is Arab-influenced and outstanding; the religious atmosphere around Abraham’s Pool is unlike anything in Istanbul or the western resorts.

Balikli Gol (Pool of Abraham)

Two large rectangular pools fed by spring water, filled with thousands of sacred carp that locals believe it is forbidden to catch. The pools are surrounded by gardens, mosques, and Ottoman-era medrese buildings, creating an extraordinary ensemble. Families and pilgrims sit on the benches, feed the fish, and drink tea from the surrounding cafes.

The two pools — Aynzeliha and Halil-ur-Rahman — are at the foot of Nimrod’s Castle on the cliff above. The gardens are calm in the early morning and particularly beautiful at dusk when the mosques are lit.

Gobekli Tepe

Gobekli Tepe is the most important archaeological discovery of the last century. Excavated from 1994 onward, it is a complex of circular stone enclosures built between 10,000 and 8,000 BC — predating agriculture, predating pottery, and predating every other known monumental structure by 6,000 years. The T-shaped stone pillars, some weighing 20 tonnes, are carved with animals: foxes, boars, snakes, cranes.

The site rewrites our understanding of human prehistory. It suggests that ritual and religion may have preceded — and possibly driven — the agricultural revolution rather than following it.

Practical: 15km northeast of Sanliurfa (30 min by taxi or tour). Open daily. Entrance approximately 300 TRY. A covered excavation shelter protects the main enclosures. Allow 2 hours. The new visitor centre and museum add significant context. Guided tours from Sanliurfa available.

The Old Bazaar

The Sanliurfa bazaar is one of the most atmospheric in Turkey — a city-sized covered market with dedicated hans for copper, spices, fabrics, and food. The Gumruk Han (Customs Han, 16th century) at the bazaar’s heart is the most significant: a large courtyard han that was the main caravanserai on the route between Aleppo and Istanbul. The bazaar is a working market, not a tourist attraction.

Urfa Food Culture

Urfa cuisine is distinguished from the rest of Turkey by its Arab and Kurdish influences. The Urfa kebab (minced lamb with Urfa chilli — darker, milder, and more complex than Adana’s variety) is the centrepiece. Çiğ köfte (spiced bulgur rolls), katmer (a layered pastry with cream), and the extraordinary variety of meze eaten for breakfast make eating in Urfa one of the highlights of any southeastern Turkey trip.

Halfeti and the Euphrates

60km west of Urfa, Halfeti is a village on the Euphrates where the construction of the Birecik Dam flooded the original settlement. The ruins of the old village are visible underwater. Boat trips on the Euphrates pass the partially submerged mosque and houses — an eerie and beautiful sight.

Best Time to Visit

Sanliurfa is brutally hot in summer — July and August temperatures regularly reach 42 to 46C. Spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November) are the only comfortable visiting periods. Winter is mild (10-15C) and also workable.